Try CALL dbms.listQueries() -- it returns a field indexes which gives you info on indexes used by the query. This is going to tend to be good for long running processor intensive queries. If the query is super short/fast, it'll be done before you have a chance to catch it with this method.
You can also list transactions with this second link. No direct index usage information. Others may be able to comment about the affect between page hits / page faults and index usage (there may be a connection I'm not sure)